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Halfway Through Madagascar

A day at a dream beach – and a reminder of why I came to Madagascar in the first place.

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My Daytrip to Saint Luce

More than half of my time here in Madagascar has already passed. If I had to draw a first conclusion, I would say: I have arrived. I have found my routine, I now know many people here, and I have settled into a daily life between teaching, working at the monastery and Project Anosy. Apart from the time when I was sick, I have been busy almost every day and rarely have much free time. And that is exactly how I originally wanted it to be: I wanted to make the most of the relatively short time I have in Madagascar – for the people here, for my work and, of course, for Project Anosy. At the same time, I am increasingly realizing how much more of the country I would like to see. Outside Fort-Dauphin, I have so far only had one or two small glimpses of Madagascar, including my trip into the bush with Father Kasimir. And considering that Madagascar is roughly twice the size of Germany, there is definitely still a lot left to discover.

Finally Leaving Fort-Dauphin

That made me even more excited about this weekend. Maria and Norbert had invited me to join them on a trip to Saint Luce, about an hour north of Fort-Dauphin. The area is supposed to have some of the most beautiful beaches on Madagascar’s east coast. And honestly: after more than three weeks here, I had somehow still never managed to properly go swimming in the ocean. Quite a waste, considering that the warm Indian Ocean is practically right on my doorstep. So my goal for this Saturday was very clear: finally get into the water! On Saturday morning, I packed my things – swimming gear, sunscreen and, of course, some food – and shortly afterwards Maria and Norbert picked me up. The first half of the journey took us along a surprisingly well-developed paved road, which was partly financed by the European Union and the mine north of Fort-Dauphin. The mine is enormous and apparently invests a lot of money in the infrastructure around Fort-Dauphin. After about 40 kilometres, however, we left the paved road and continued for another five or six kilometres over red sand towards the coast. After already getting to know Madagascar’s “well-developed” roads during my trip into the bush, I was at least prepared this time. After about an hour in total, we finally arrived.

A Beach Straight Out of a Dream

A large wooden hotel is currently being built there, which looks really impressive at first sight. But of course, that was not why I had come. I wanted to see the beach – and as soon as I arrived, I knew the drive had been worth it. Just beyond the dense rainforest, a beautiful sandy bay opened up, surrounded by rocks and tropical vegetation. I honestly don't think I had ever seen a beach quite like it before. Apparently, whales and dolphins can even be spotted regularly in this area. But for me, there was only one thing to do first: get into the water. The Indian Ocean was incredibly warm – so warm that I almost wondered why I should ever get out again. Although, to be fair, the North Sea is not exactly the benchmark for tropical swimming temperatures. :D Afterwards, we had a lovely picnic right by the ocean and simply enjoyed a relaxed end to the day.

Why I Came Here

That day reminded me once again of the extraordinary place I am actually in. Less than a year ago, I probably would not even have dreamed of sitting on a beach like this in southeastern Madagascar – while at the same time working here, teaching children and building something of my own through Project Anosy. Of course, there are difficult days here as well, and my everyday life is mostly about work rather than holidays. But moments like this show me just how special this experience really is. I came to Madagascar because I wanted to make a difference and get to know the people here – and at the same time, I am discovering a country that keeps showing me new sides of itself. And sitting there on that beach, with the warm Indian Ocean in front of me, I thought once again: Coming to Madagascar was definitely the right decision.

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